How to Replace the Gas Lift on Your Vertagear Gaming Chair

Quick answer

Replacing the gas lift on a Vertagear gaming chair means removing the seat and base, knocking the old cylinder out of the seat plate with a rubber mallet, and pressing the new cylinder into place. Most people can finish in 30 to 60 minutes with basic tools. If your chair sinks on its own or will not hold height, the cylinder is the usual cause, and a replacement is the fix rather than a repair.

A gaming chair that slowly sinks while you sit, or refuses to rise no matter how hard you pull the lever, is usually dealing with a worn gas lift. The cylinder is a sealed pressurized part, so once it loses pressure there is nothing to tighten or adjust. Replacing it is the practical fix, and it is a job you can do at home without a workshop.

This guide walks through the replacement in order, from confirming the diagnosis to testing the new lift under load. It also covers the small mistakes that turn a 30-minute job into an afternoon, and which Vertagear parts are worth checking while the chair is already apart.

Confirm the gas lift is actually the problem

Before ordering a replacement, rule out the simpler causes. Flip the chair over and check that the height lever is not bent or jammed, and that the cable or linkage still engages the cylinder's release button. If the lever moves freely and the chair still sinks under your weight, the cylinder has lost its gas charge and needs replacing.

A second check is the base. If the chair wobbles rather than sinks, the issue may be a cracked base or loose casters instead. Set the chair on a flat floor, sit down, and watch whether the seat drops gradually or the whole column tilts. Gradual sinking points to the gas lift; tilting points to the base or the cylinder's weld.

• Sit for a full minute before judging: slow sinking is easier to miss than a sudden drop.
• If the chair holds height when empty but drops when you sit, the cylinder is the likely culprit.

Gather the right tools before you start

You will need a rubber mallet, a socket or wrench set, a flathead screwdriver, and a clean cloth. A second pair of hands helps when lifting the seat off the column, because the seat and backrest assembly is the heaviest part of the chair. Work on a hard floor rather than carpet so you can apply firm downward force without the chair sinking.

If you have kept the original hardware, reuse the bolts and washers; they are matched to the chair's thread and length. If any bolt is stripped or missing, source a replacement before reassembling rather than forcing a mismatched one. A penetrating oil applied to the cylinder joint the night before can save a lot of frustration if the chair has never been disassembled.

• Photograph the underside before removing anything so reassembly is unambiguous.
• Never use a metal hammer directly on the cylinder: it deforms the tube and can crack the seat plate.

Remove the seat and base safely

Lay the chair on its side on a padded surface. Remove the bolts connecting the seat plate to the seat, then lift the seat away and set it aside. Pull the base and casters off the bottom of the cylinder. At this point you should have the cylinder, the five-star base, and the seat as three separate pieces.

If the cylinder is stuck in the base, stand the base upright, grip the cylinder, and twist while pulling. A rubber mallet tapped around the base hub can break the friction seal. Do not pry against the caster legs, since the base is the part most likely to crack under sideways force.

• Keep the casters upright so they do not roll away while you work.
• If the base will not release, apply penetrating oil and wait rather than forcing it.

Drive the old cylinder out of the seat plate

With the seat upside down on a stable surface, locate the top of the cylinder where it passes through the seat plate. Strike the top of the cylinder with a rubber mallet, working around the rim rather than in one spot, until it drops free. The seat plate is the fragile part here, so support it with your free hand to absorb the shock.

Some chairs use a retaining clip or a tapered fit that resists the first few strikes. If nothing moves after several firm hits, apply more penetrating oil and give it time. Forcing it with a metal tool risks bending the seat plate, which is a far more expensive part to replace than the cylinder itself.

• Strike in a circle, not straight down on one edge, to keep the cylinder square.
• If the cylinder will not budge, stop and let the oil work instead of escalating force.

Fit the new cylinder and reassemble

Slide the new gas lift into the seat plate until it seats fully, then press the base onto the bottom of the cylinder. Reattach the seat to the seat plate with the original bolts, tightening them in a cross pattern so the plate sits evenly. Set the chair upright and press down firmly on the seat to seat the cylinder in the base.

Test the height lever through its full range before you sit normally. The chair should rise smoothly when you lift your weight and hold position when you settle. If it still sinks, the cylinder is either not fully seated or the wrong fit, so check the insertion depth before assuming the part is faulty.

• Tighten bolts in a cross pattern to avoid stressing the seat plate.
• Run the height lever through its full travel before putting your full weight on the chair.

Gas lift replacement at a glance

1. Diagnose before you buy: Confirm the lever, linkage, and base are intact, then check for slow sinking under weight. Checkpoint: the chair holds height when empty but sinks when you sit.
2. Prep the workspace: Work on a hard floor with a rubber mallet, socket set, and a cloth, and photograph the underside first. Checkpoint: all hardware is accounted for before disassembly.
3. Separate seat, base, and cylinder: Remove the seat bolts, pull the base off the cylinder, and set the three pieces aside. Checkpoint: the cylinder is fully exposed and nothing is under load.
4. Drive out the old cylinder: Strike the top of the cylinder in a circle with a rubber mallet while supporting the seat plate. Checkpoint: the cylinder drops free without bending the seat plate.
5. Install and test the new lift: Seat the new cylinder, refit the base, and tighten seat bolts in a cross pattern. Checkpoint: the height lever moves through its full range and holds under your weight.

Vertagear parts worth knowing

• PL6800: Vertagear PL6800 | Most Comfortable Chair for Big GuyWaterfall and Wide Seat design to prevent blockage of blood circulation throughout your legs. A bigger size gaming chair with build in ContourMaxTM Lumbar, instintively flexible, contouring your body to shift to different positions to retain ergonomic comfort when sitting prolonged hours. If you are replacing a lift on a big-and-tall chair, the wider seat and ContourMax lumbar mean the seat assembly is heavier, so plan for a second pair of hands when lifting it off the column.
• Triigger 350 Sc Headrest/Neck Support: The Triigger Headrest Sc is the industry's first antibacterial, anti-odor headrest. It's crafted with coffee fiber and silver linen and hosts a memory foam interior. It offers a wide range of adjustment to suit your personal comfort and is absolutely essential to complete your ergonomic chair. Compatible with the Triigger 350 and Triigger 350 SE. While the chair is apart, it is a good time to check whether your headrest needs replacing. Note the compatibility limit: this headrest fits the Triigger 350 and Triigger 350 SE only.

A sinking chair is rarely a mystery once you know the gas lift is a sealed part that cannot be repaired, only replaced. Work patiently, protect the seat plate, and test the new cylinder under load before you call the job done.